# Slow motion bullet in photoshop

In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to create a good bullet shot effect. I decided to use a technological object, such as a remote control, to show a multitude of tiny parts flying away from the impact of a bullet: a circuit board, buttons, and a few chips …

For this tutorial, I used Photoshop CS3, and I think that is pretty necessary. You also need to know how:
– allocate areas with the tool pen (pen)
– how does the filter work liquify (plastic) (we are not going to use it a lot, but we may need it in some moments).

I used the following sources:

The bullet used in this tutorial was created by me in Solidworks 3D Pro, but you can easily find a free stock photo with a bullet. And if you do not find it, then you can use mine without any problems.
So, let’s begin!

Final result:

Step 1. So, here are the sources

Step 2. Before you start working with our source code, let’s review the progress of work in order to be more organized.
Progress: how to create a 3D effect. Let’s assume that we have a circuit board layer, and we want to make it three-dimensional, in order to get rid of the “flat” effect.

1. Duplicate the board layer (Ctrl + J)
2. Press the up key on the keyboard.
3. Do this several times (depending on the situation, maybe 2-3, maybe 8-9 or more …)
4. Merge all layers, keeping the top one (see image below).
5. Blur out the merged layers with Gaussian blur (Gaussian Blur) with a value of 1
6. Darken slightly drained layers.
7. Blur a little the edges of the upper layer.
8. Merge all layers.
Done! Now it is no longer 2D.

Step 3. Now let’s start highlighting the buttons: to create a pure round selection, use the tool pen (pen) and create your outline, then right-click and “make selection” (create selection) (feather (feather) to 0).
After that, copy your selection to the new layer (Ctrl + C and Ctrl + V), work with “liquify” (filter> liquify (filter> plastic)) to make the buttons rounded and fill in the missing parts (1).
If you want to jump over this point (1), be easier and directly select the buttons that are ready to use. As I did in the second paragraph (2). Some “cleaning” is needed in either of these two ways, so use the tool carefully. eraser (eraser).

Step 4. Let’s hide these letters, we need them later.
Now create to start two parts: select tool pen (pen) surface with buttons (1) (I hope you understood what I mean), then copy and paste.
Do the same with the part of the panel below (2).
Now it’s very easy to create a 3D effect for the first part (see Step 2 of this lesson), but it’s not easy with the second part. Let’s see in the next step.

Step 5. So, we have a selection just created (A) in the previous step, let’s draw a three-dimensional part on a new bottom layer (A).
Use a brush and if you want, pen (pen) (this is according to your discretion and skills). I drew the “wings” because I believe that the surface with the buttons is attached by something … well, I don’t know for sure, I never opened the remote =)

Step 6. I decided to fill these wings with a pattern.
Create a new layer under this shape, select magic wand tool (W) (with a magic wand) two empty parcels, then go to edit> fill (edit> fill) (select 50% gray (gray)).
Switch to blending options (overlay settings), and select pattern overlay (overlapping pattern). Select a pattern in the images and install it. blending mode (blending mode) on multiply (multiplication).
Click ok, select three layers, merge them (or merge, if you are sure)

Step 7. Fine. Now let’s take the source with the board and make it realistic … as if it really belongs to the console. To make it in perspective, you may need “Vanishing points” (filter> vanishing point (filter> vanishing points)) or do it manually using Edit-> Transform-> free transform (Editing> Transformation> Free Transformation). I recommend the latter because it is easier to work with and you can undo what you do. For example, I will show you how you should distort it: just hold down Ctrl + click and drag a small square near the image that is available for offset and … freely transform !!

Step 8. So, after the first little lesson on free transformation, let’s work seriously with our board. Duplicate the layer using the keyboard shortcut Ctrl + J, put the two layers together in a row, then create the desired perspective using another layer with buttons as an example.

Step 9. Well, now our board is in the correct perspective, but it has an irregular shape: to make it equal to the layer with buttons, move it up, then Ctrl + click on the layer icon (the layer with buttons), then Ctrl + Shift + I, so that the selection is inverted, and finally click on the board layer and press Del.
Then give it a volume.

Step 10. So, now we will create a chip from scratch, which will be inserted into our board. Create a layer with a shape: use “rounded rectangle tool” (rounded rectangle) and fill it with an arbitrary color. Then go to blending options (overlay settings) and apply these settings:

Step 11. Now place the chips on the board using free transform (free transformation).
Then take the original source with remote control and:
1. Highlight the red light with the tool. pen (pen)
2. Clean the edges with eraser (eraser)
3. Finally duplicate the layer twice and scale it up, changing opacity(transparency) up to 90% and 80%.

Step 12. Always start from the main source, select with pen (pen) the lower part of the “box”.

Step 13. Now let’s work with this layer:
1. [(Ctrl + J) + right arrow on the keyboard + lower arrow on the keyboard] x 5 times = 3D effect
2. In the orange circle we have a good border, but in the yellow one you see that you need to make some effort.
3. Save the top layer (blue), merge the other layers, smear and darken them.
Erase carefully the unwanted area (look at the short orange arrow)
4. Copy with pen (pen) the frame we created in (1) and merge with the other part of the “box” that is artificial, just below the frame … then flip them horizontally (Ctrl + T, and then rotate 180 degrees).

Step 14. Align the gray frame with the box using warp (deformation).

Step 15. For convenience, I hid parts that are currently of no interest to us.
So:
1. Draw a frame on a new layer with a black brush (choose a color with a pipette so that it is the same)
2. Spread a soft brush with a hardness of 50
3. Erase carefully rough edges and make them more rounded.

Step 16.
1. Create a new layer under the “box” and paint it gray
2. Erase unwanted areas on the gray layer and on the “box” layer.
3. Dim (midtones (mid tone) – exposure (exposure) – 50) and lighten (highlights (Sveta) – exposure (exposure) -30)

A) I also painted with a brown soft brush lines that create a greater impression that this is a “box”.
B) I used several different techniques for this box: instead of drawing with a gray brush, I created a part using a filter liquify(plastic) to the layer (after its duplication, of course)
The result is almost the same and constitutes the basis for our work, I do not think that these parts will be fully visible in our work.

Step 17. Let’s create some electrical wires:
– create a new layer
– First, let’s install the brush: press B, select the 10 px black (black) brush with hardness (stiffness) 90%
– draw some curves and / or straight lines Pen (Pen)
– right click> strokepath(perform a stroke)> brush (brush) (uncheck the option simulatepressure(imitate pressure)
– go to blending options (overlay settings) and click on “bevel and emboss ” (embossed) and coloroverlay(color overlay) (here you can choose a color for your wire (s)
I created some black, yellow, red and blue wires. Let’s mix the wires together now with a tool. eraser (eraser).

Step 18. Now let’s take another image with a board. Our task is to fit the perspective of the original image to the perspective of the console. This procedure is performed in the same way as in the case of the previous board.

Step 19. So, following only the instructions in step 7 and 8 of this lesson, we fit the perspective.
And after we are done with this:
one . map the layer to the keypad
2 Ctrl + click on the icon of the layer with the keypad
3 Ctrl + Shift + I to invert the selection, then click on the layer with the board and press the Del button.
Done!

Step 20. A) Of course, we must also add 3D to this layer.
B) again take the original source … let’s save the chip, which may be needed later.
So:
– highlight pen (pen)
– turn
– Ctrl + J and right arrow 5-6 times
-drain and darken the edges

Step 21 A small digression. Now we need to think about small effects with a bullet … especially about the direction of the bullet and the direction of flying particles.

Step 22 I think it would be better this way: the bullet comes out of the lower left corner of the image and hits it in the middle of our console, creating a lot of flying parts.
So let’s do it!

Step 23 Take the first surface with the buttons and divide it into two parts: to do this, duplicate the layer, apply layer mask (layer mask) to both and start erasing some parts with a black brush.
Carefully erase the gray buttons.
Finally, expand the layers a bit and, when you are sure of your result with the masks, right-click on the layer mask icon and select “apply layer mask” (apply layer mask).

Step 24 Select with the tool lasso (Lasso) area near the cracked area, right-click, select feather (feather) and enter 7 (value depends on your resolution).

Step 25. Then deform: deform the area gently to distort the edges. This method allows you to distort only the selected area and gives more control.
Click ok. Take a good look, because even if you have done a clean job, it is possible that where the selection line passed, there can be a line with a width of 1 px, which is visible on your (white) background.
Erase it with a tool. history brush (archive brush), but also a blur with the tool may be sufficient blur (blur) size 2-3 pxls.

If you have not used feather (feathering) during this action … the result is terrible.

This is my work with deformation: gently move the edges of the grid, taking care that you also shuffle the base of your selection.

Step 26.
1. Use also a little liquify (plastics) and give a wavy effect to these plastic “shreds”.
2. Create a 3D effect. An orange frame indicates areas to erase.
3. Erase the parts that we do not need (see the two arrows starting from the bottom)
Now we also got a 3D effect for our part, which is destroyed (or better “destroyed”) by a bullet.

Step 27. Along the edges in the place where there will be destruction, work with the tool. smudge (smearing) with hardness (hardness) 70%. More motion effect!
Another very, very good treatment that you can apply to your layers is working with the tool. smudge (smearing) On the layer mask !! Using a grunge brush, for example, you can create such crumbling small parts of the edges.

Step 28. Your task is to process in this way each layer that we created before this stage (especially light bulbs with wires).
I am not going to show you work with each layer again, simply because you will not see anything new there, it is always the same process. Follow steps 23-27 and you will have all the information you need.
And I also leave at your discretion how to destroy parts, because this process is quite easy.
Now that we have broken the layers, let’s arrange them in the correct logical order. So, the box that contains the technical details is the last layer, then the boards, the lights, the wires … in the middle.

Step 29.
1. Now apply drop shadow (shadow) to each layer with these settings
2. Apply also red “color overlay” (color overlay) to the light bulbs (always in blending options (overlay settings))

Step 30. We have shadows that emanate from the main figure. These are shadows from the light, so click on the light bulbs, go to the menu Layer style -> create layer (Layer style> create layer).
Now we have light bulbs and shadow, as two separate layers. Erase extra shadow eraser (eraser) (or better on layer mask (masked layer) if you are not yet sure of the position of the red light bulbs)

Step 31 Now DUBBIT all layers and merge them. In this way, we can create a crumbling effect faster and better. Select with the tool lasso (lasso) some areas that are shown in the image below. Tool lasso (Lasso)> Ctrl + C> Ctrl + V.

Step 32 Now we have this layer. So,
1. Duplicate and rotate (to get more pieces)
2. Drain 2 layers
3. Go to menu filter-> blur -> radialblur(filter> blur> radial blur). Set “zoom”, amount (degree) 37, quality (quality) “best” (the best).
Create multiple variations and combine them. Use a little warp (deformation) and / or liquify (plastics) to control your effect. In conclusion, drain them.

Step 33 We can remove the remote control that we got as a result of merging all the layers, we will not need it anymore. Then
1. Place the layer we created in the previous step in the center of the console.
2. Now the most tedious part of the work has begun: create a dozen small flying parts.
The process is the same:
Tool lasso (lasso)> Ctrl + C> Ctrl + V> Make 3D> tool smudge (smearing).
From each component a few tiny flying particles.

Step 34 Put these tiny particles in the “break point”.
Then take a bullet, convert it to smartobject(Smart Object), then go to the menu filter-> blur-> motion blur (filter> blur> motion blur) and apply.

Step 35 Smart object, so smart object! (Note: smart (eng.) – “smart”).
The applied filter is not destructive: it means that we have layer mask (layer mask) available for the filter, and we can change the filter settings whenever we want, just double clicking on the filter icon … great!
So let’s erase the black brush filter where we don’t need it.

Step 36 The bullet is ready and looks like it is in motion. Now take one of the blue buttons and destroy it. Erase some part and smear the edges as you like: do not forget to give an “exploding” effect.
Create (be careful, duplicate, before you do something) a few fluttering tiny particles that fly away from the bullet after the collision. Spread them in the right direction, not in a random order.

Step 37. (I have discolored the image, just to show you better, but you do not do it !!)
The flying pieces should follow the orange guides, so create some new ones or move, rotate, transform the ones you created earlier.

Step 38 Correctly place the blue button next to the collision point. Remember to add a shadow manually. Take a soft black brush, draw a shadow, set the layer to multiply (multiplication) and opacity (transparency) at 65%.

Step 39. Suppose a bullet pierces a chip and hits in two.
In step 20, we saved the chip from our source. So break it (as in steps 23-27) and spread it in the right direction.
Add here also a shadow like this: new layer> black soft brush> multiply mode (multiplication) and opacity (transparency) 65%.

Step 40. Open a new document.
Place a remote control with a bullet and all the tiny particles in it and drain them. Name this layer “remote”.
Then a new layer> foreground color (foreground color) – white, background – dark green.
Filter -> render -> clouds(Filter> Render> Clouds)

Step 41 Apply blur(blur),levels(levels)Hue/saturation(color tone / saturation), as shown (in order!). Brighten too dark areas (in orange circles) with a large soft brush.

Step 42 Create a new layer and apply a gradient to it. from black to transparent (black to transparent gradient). Set the mode to multiply (multiplication) (a gradient from black to white will also work, since multiply (multiplication) hides white colors).

Step 43 Create a new layer, fill it with black, go to the menu filter -> render -> lens flare (filter> rendering> highlight). Install blending mode (blending mode) on overlay (overlap)

Step 44. This is a scheme with opacity (transparency) and mode settings.

Step 45. Our image is a bit dark, let’s fix this.