Inspired by the editorial work of Newton in the 90s, Tigz Rice will show you how to create perfect skin and a cross-processing effect with gradients for a stylish, stylized look.
In this lesson you will learn how to create a glossy fashion photo in Photoshop – You will also receive advice on the selection of style, lighting, and what camera settings you should use.
Inspired by the color Polaroids of Helmut Newton’s later works, photographer Tigz Rice will tell you how to prepare your shot before working with the image in Photoshop.
She will show how to get glossy skin in Photoshop. – and how to create a cross-processing effect using gradients to get this final result: cooler shades in the shadows and warmer in the light areas of the photo.
First, let’s take a look at the style of the shooting. Inspired by an archive of photographs of women with Helmut Newton, Didi wore black underwear with stockings and suspenders.
We also chose a leopard pattern for the top of the garment. The rich color of red lipstick has completed the image of our model.
Let’s pay attention to the lighting setting. In the 90s it was quite difficult to achieve the desired contrast. Now this effect can be easily achieved with a flash, but here I wanted to show you an example of how this effect can be achieved with a natural light source.
Didi sat next to the open window so that the photograph would have a hard directional light from the right side.
Once you are satisfied with the light source, then take pictures. Once again drawing inspiration from Helmut Newton’s portfolio, we chose a strong angular pose, focusing on Didi’s legs. This image was shot with these settings: 1/160 seconds on F4, with ISO 200.
After you finish shooting, select the best photo and open it in Photoshop. If you shot in RAW format, then it should automatically open in Adobe Camera RAW. If not, go to Filter> Camera Filter Raw (Filter> Camera Raw Filter) to access the settings panel.
In the tab Main (Basic) make the exposure and white balance correction to balance the colors and to further obtain such a result, as in the photographs of Helmut Newton of the 90s.
For this snapshot, I also changed the settings in Contraste (Contrast), Sveta (Highlights) and Shadows (Shadows).
When you are satisfied with the result, click Open image (Open Image) or OK to apply the settings and open the image in Photoshop.
Then clean the image as needed, removing any spots, unnecessary parts and hair with the tool Spot Healing Brush (Spot Healing Brush Tool)
Now I have worked a little plastic on the leg, in the place where it is flattened due to the fact that it is in contact with the sofa.
Next we focus on cleaning the skin. Models in the works of Helmut’s 90s usually have flawless skin, so you can do it a little better than you would do for a regular shot (although you can soften this trendy glamor to create your own version of the style).
Press the Cmd / Ctrl + Shift + N key combination to create a new layer. In the settings, change the blending mode to Soft light (Soft Light) and tick Fill in the neutral color of the Soft Light mode (gray 50%) (Fill with Soft-Light-neutral color (50% gray)). Click OK.
Choose a tool Clarifier (Dodge Tool), in the tool settings, select Mid tones (Midtones) and set the exposure value to about 5-10%. Go through any dark textures on the skin to create a nice even tone. You can also use the tool Clarifier (Dodge Tool) to highlight the bright places in your image to enhance contrast.
When you are satisfied with how your image looks, let’s continue and add the “cross-processing” effect. Create an adjustment layer by clicking on the icon at the bottom of the layers panel and select Gradient Map … (Gradient Map …).
In the tab Properties (Properties) click on the arrow that is near the gradient to open the gradient palette. Click on the gear icon that is in this submenu, and in the context menu that appears, select Photographic toning (Photographic Toning) to load toning gradients.
Let’s give the shadows a cooler tone. Select the Cobalt-Iron1 gradient.
This effect is pretty strong, so change the blending mode to Overlap (Overlay) and reduce opacity (Opacity) up to 30%.
Now let’s do the opposite and add some warm tones.
Repeat steps 8-10, select the Sepia 5 gradient instead.
Also, check the box. Inversion (Reverse) in the gradient map panel to apply it to the lighter parts of your image.
Finally, add some grain. To do this, first select all the layers in the layers panel, right-click and select in the context menu Convert to smart object (Convert To Smart Object) to merge everything into one smart layer.
Go to Filter> Filter Camera Raw (Filter> Camera Raw). Click the tab Effects (Effects). The number, size and roughness of your grain will depend entirely on the size of your image.
When you are happy with the result, click OK to return to the main Photoshop window and save the file.